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We were attracted to this area not just because it is scenically attractive, with a wonderful climate, but also because it is very much Catalan in character. It is a popular area for French holidaymakers, yet remains a region for living and working. The Catalan character is a little more flamboyant, with village fiestas in the summer, and tapas bars and Catalan restaurants commonplace.
If that isn't enough, Spain is 20 minutes away for a complete change of pace and style. Its near enough to pop over to Figueres for a tapas evening in one of the many bars.
(PS - don't drink & drive, and wear seatbelts - evening and Sunday revellers are an easy target at the border!)

Towns

Ceret

Ceret is approximately 20 minutes drive via Le Boulou, although a “crow's flight” route takes you through Les Apres hills and villages, but it is quite tortuous.
Ceret is located under the tail-end of the Pyrenees, a little above the valley bottom. It has an atmospheric town centre, with large eucalyptus trees providing shade to the street cafes in summer, with cool water from the mountains flowing down the marble street channels.

Ceret has a quite cosmopolitan feel, but remains archetypically French. There are some excellent restaurants, some sophisticated and others quite simple, with the usual collection of specialist shops for foodstuffs, wine, flowers etc.
Saturday is market day in Ceret, approximately 8.00am to 1.00pm. You can buy everything, from a paella to a lemon tree, or a portable generator to a chicken.

Ceret claims with some justification to be the home of the Modern Art Movement, with Picasso, Matisse and Gris being residents at various times. The Museum of Modern Art is well worth a visit, even if you are not an art lover.

Thuir

The administrative centre to villages such as Villemolaque. A very pleasant small town with several shops demanding a browse.
Thuir also has a market on Saturday. It's difficult to beat Ceret market, but Thuir is a little more practical, and less touristy, and runs it a close second.
Again, there are several restaurants from traditional to chic, with a number claiming Catalan cuisine. We know Thuir for an excellent take away - not UK style, but more a gourmet take-away!

Le Boulou

Somehow, Le Boulou's name fits the town. Always bustling, with lots of shops, banks cafes etc, plus the best local supermarket shopping. It is the sort of place to go to get your car fixed, or buy a lawn mower. Tourists are there almost by accident, but it has everything for everyday living, some excellent restaurants, and some breathtaking views from unlikely places such as the supermarket car-park. Le Boulou grows on you. Quite a few shops open on Sunday mornings - the butcher, baker, coffee shops, and the inevitable florist.

Collioure

 

Collioure has one of the prettiest settings of any resort, and has always been a favourite place for artists. Matisse, Picasso and Dufy spent time here.
Collioure is dominated by the castle built by the Knights Templar in the Middle Ages to guard against Saracen pirates. The beach and harbour atmosphere is completed by the tiny St Vincent Island and beach with its 17thC Moorish tower with its pink dome. Parking is difficult, and directions to the reliable car parks are even more difficult to explain.
Argeles Argeles sur Mer has a fabulous long beach with an amazing backdrop of the Alberes mountains and Canigou further afield.
Argeles is more than a holiday resort. Two kilometres inland is Argeles village. Here there are plenty of shops, a busy Wednesday market, and plenty of restaurants.
Villages and countryside

Les Alberes

Les Alberes are the tail end of the Pyrenees range. Typically 3000 to 5000 feet high, they tumble down into the Mediterranean between Collioure and Cape Cerbere. They change colour throughout the day, varying with the weather and the angle of the sun, often in the evening being a breathtaking mix of blues and purples.
Strung along the foot of Les Alberes are several villages. Ceret is the largest, but Montesquieu; Villelongues; Laroque; and Sorede are well worth a detour.

 

Les Aspres Les Aspres is the name given to the area surrounding Villemolaque, with Thuir as its centre. It is an area of small hills and valleys, predominantly covered with vineyards. There are too many villages to mention, with the main activities relating to grape and fruit growing, and their associated businesses.
In the hillier part of Les Aspres is Castlenou. This is a fortified village perched on hilltop. Perhaps a little preserved in aspic, it nevertheless has a superb atmosphere, with a few restaurants and a number ofquality artisan workshops. Similar in style is Eus, except that this is a real lived-in village, looking almost as if it was poured down the hillside,
Jonathan and Rachel, who manage our villa, have a vineyard at Trouillas. A major career change saw Jonathan train as a winemaker in NZ, and eventually settle in Roussillon. We can't wait for 2006 vintage.
The Beaches and Coast
From well north of Perpignan, there is an almost continuous beach down to Collioure. For easy access from Villemolaque, St Cyprien and Argeles beaches are vast expanses, often with small dunes to give shelter if the wind is blowing.
Le Racou, between Argeles and Collioure is smaller, with the Alberes as a backdrop. Parking is relatively easy at these beaches.
Collioure, Port Vendres and Banyuls all have small beaches, these being essentially town beaches. Parking is likely to be difficult at peak times.
Languedoc Roussillon  

Languedoc-Roussillon is a vast area with an equally varied landscape and urban areas. The lower lying areas are predominantly vineyards and fruit growing, with the higher land being wild and beautiful. In particular, the Corbiere region with its breathtaking, but bleak Cathar castles harking back to a time of unbelievable brutality in the name of religion.

Take the road from Perpignan to Limoux, and you will pass through dramatic gorges, see impossible castles and still manage to pass through (and taste) some rather excellent wines. We have found a few quite impressive places and wines, and may be willing to share the secrets!

Spain
La Junquera
Somehow, everyone visits La Junquera. It has a beautiful location at the start of the Pass of Perthus, but its existence is based purely on cross border trade, and few would call it pretty. Even iIn the days of the Euro, its main business has not diminished, with the most amazing collection of shops and Supermercados selling pretty well everything. French people come to buy pastis in lots of 10 cases.
As La Junquera is the last place before France, there is, in consequence, the constant rumble of trucks refuelling and parking up. These are generally well segregated, but is nevertheless, quite an amazing site. A bit like elephants queuing patiently at the waterholes.
Figueres Being the home town of Salvador Dali is the main claim to fame for Figueres. This is something to be proud of however, and the Dali Theatre Museum should be a must on anyone's itinerary. Figueres, however, is much more. Shopping is excellent, and there are several super tapas bars for later in the evening.
Girona A few words would not do Girona justice. From just a few visits, we have memories of ancient streets, unbelievably steep cobbled climbs, with a huge cathedral brooding on top of a rocky hill.
Shopping ain't bad either, but by skiill, we manage to be there during afternoon close-down.
Costa Brave Still suffering from a bad press after being the first package holiday destination, the reality is much different. Rosas, for instance is quite modest compared with many, and High-Rise means about 6 floors, not 30. The inland area is quite beautiful with wooded hills and small towns and villages, and there are still the small sandy bays that brought people here for holidays years ago - not deserted perhaps, but pretty good by Mediterranean standards.